Being our first night we headed back to our hotel in a Second class train ride. Our original journey on Sunday morning cost us 156 Rupees, which equates to a good breakfast so we decided to take the second class option which costs 14 for both of us. The train car was crowded but not claustrophobic and one of the older gentlemen that we were sitting near came up to us and started talking. The usual, where are you from, how long are you here, what’s your name, he was very well spoken and after a while he told us that tomorrow we would be unable to take the Second class option because there is not enough room to breath never mind sit, so we would be better off taking the First Class option as he would during the week.

The next morning, MADNESS. I have never seen anything this chaotic, pushing, shoving and people jumping from the over stuffed train doors before the car has stopped. Scary. The book Shantaram describes this perfectly and one of the things that he says is that the amount of force required to do anything in India, including boarding a train is “just enough.” Just enough to get the job done, just enough to make sure that you don’t miss the train. Trains are usually on time, maybe a minute late, but these clunking beasts are not sitting for long.

I estimate that they are only in the station for about 30 seconds and in that time hundreds of people change places some getting to their station and some getting onboard for the office. Most people start work by 10am so the crashing trains happen until about 10:30 and then lighten up. Somewhat. Today we took the train and Lisa had to sit in the ladies only section because of the number of people and I sat in the baggage car with the fish merchants who were transporting their catch and the road workers with their pick axes and steaming hot chai teas.

I was sitting and holding a one Liter bottle of water that was half finished. While I was sitting down I got a tap on the leg and the guy next to me motioned for the bottle. I offered and he took a sip in that all to Indian style of drinking. Never let ones lips touch the cup or the container. The is the land of sharing especially water. On the streets one water merchant may only have six stainless steel cups for 100 customers. Each one making sure that his lips never touch the rim of the glass. Its more of a pour than a sip. But any way, no local would dream of carrying around a liter of water so having a half finished bottle in the baggage cart was just an invitation to share.